(originally published on the site, FrugalWorld.com)
As the days get shorter, your to-do list just seems to get longer. One of the big things on it is getting your house ready for winter. Winterizing your home can not only make you more comfortable this winter, it can also save you a considerable amount of money on energy costs. Taking proper care of your home now can protect you from some of the damage that winter can inflict on it. It also will make your homestead a lot safer for your family.
Winterizing may seem to be a daunting task, but getting your house ready for winter should really only take you a weekend, if that. Use the following guide to make sure that you’re ready for winter, both inside and out.
Your furnace
Start your winterizing efforts at the top: with your furnace. Before you even turn your furnace on for the season, you should get it cleaned and tuned by a HVAC professional. While this will probably run you a good $100 at least, it is well worth the money spent both in energy savings over the course of the winter (as your furnace runs more efficiently) and in terms of safety.
After the professional gets done cleaning it, make sure you move any flammable items far away from the furnace itself (for obvious reasons). If your system is forced hot water – as opposed to air – bleed the valves to remove any air from the system. To do this, locate the valves and open them slightly until water appears, then close them. If you don’t know where the valves are, ask the HVAC pro before he or she heads out.
Look into a programmable thermostat for your furnace. This can save you a ton of money over manually turning the temperature up and down, and can greatly increase your comfort level as well. Finally, stock up on furnace filters, if applicable. Filters can get blocked, which cuts down on the amount of air reaching your furnace, negatively affecting its efficiency. It can even get to the point where a blocked filter can start a fire. Buy filters in bulk to save money, and change them out monthly, or as needed.
Your chimney/woodstove/fireplace
Next on your list should be your chimney and other heating sources such as woodstoves and fireplaces. If you don’t have a woodstove or fireplace, you may not have to have your chimney cleaned/swept each year, but you should definitely check it to see if it does need sweeping. Chimneys attached to woodstoves or fireplaces are another thing entirely. These (and all associated pipes) should be swept at least a couple of times a year, as needed. Creosote can not only build up and create a fire hazard, but the stuff is super acidic and can quickly eat its way through mortar, metal, etc. if you let it go.
In addition to sweeping, you should inspect all piping, connections, and mortar to make sure that everything is in good condition and fits snuggly. Check the dampers on your fireplace or woodstove to make sure that they are working correctly (i.e. opening and closing). While we’re on the subject, make sure that any wood you’re going to be burning is stacked and located away from the house. Finally, regardless of what kind of chimney you have, make sure you put a cap atop it. A cap will keep out both rain (which can combine with creosote to make an even more acidic mix) and birds, as well as debris like leaves that can build up.
Your smoke detector
While you’ve knocked the threat of fire way down by taking care of your furnace, chimneys and woodstove, it’s still imperative that you have working smoke detectors in your house. While you’re doing your winterizing chores, add your smoke detectors to the list. Change out all batteries and test them with real smoke; don’t just push the test button and assume you’re all set. A good rule of thumb is one detector per house level, but check with your city/town to see if there are any municipal regulations concerning detectors; some require you to have one in every room.
You should have a couple of fire extinguishers as well, just in case. Check that they are fully charged, and replace any extinguishers that are over ten years old. Finally, pick up a carbon-monoxide detector to keep an eye on this invisible, deadly threat. Install it near your furnace or hot water heater, two primary carbon-monoxide sources in most houses.
Your pipes
If you’ve never had frozen pipes… well, trust me, let’s keep it that way. If it gets below freezing outside where you live, it also gets below freezing in any part of your house without a heating source. Pipes that run through unheated basements, crawlspaces, etc. are all in danger of freezing unless you insulate them. Pipe insulation can be found at your local hardware store in the shape of pre-molded foam sleeves that fit right over the pipes. Not only will these help to keep your pipes from freezing, but they will also help you get hot water faster when you turn the tap on, which will save you money.
One more pipe to worry about… do you have an outside water spigot? These can freeze up real fast (been there, done that). To avoid an annoying repair this spring, make sure you turn off the water at the shut-off valve inside the house and allow any excess water to completely drain from the pipe.
Your ducts
If you have a forced air system, you should put its ductwork on your winterization list. This is the series of ducts that run from your furnace to the various vents in your house, and the U.S. Department of Energy estimates that you could be losing up to 60% of your heat if they are not up to snuff.
To check your ducts, just trace them all from the furnace to the vents, looking for any loose connections, pinched piping, gaps… basically anything that will be bleeding out heat and making your system less efficient. Repair and replace any defective ductwork, and break them apart to give them a good vacuuming every few years. Ducts can amass quite the collection of dust and animal hair, which can affect the air quality of your whole house.
Your attic
One area where your winterization efforts will pay off big is in the attic. One fact is inescapable: heat rises. It runs into enough insulation, though, it’s going to stop rising and stay in your house, saving you mucho money. This will also prevent the build-up of ice dams on the edges of your roof, which can create all sorts of problems in terms of leaking, structural damage, etc.
So, how much insulation are we talking here? You should have 12 inches of insulation in your attic. Since ceiling joists generally run 10-11 inches, this means that if you can see the joists, you need more insulation. If you’re adding insulation to the existing insulation already there, make sure you do not use the kraft face/paper backed variety. This can act as a vapor barrier and create moisture problems in your insulation.
Your air conditioner
If you have a large AC unit, make sure you winterize it as well. Turn off the water shut-off valve, and drain all pipes of water. Be sure you also vacuum out any standing pools of water in the unit’s drain pan. If the unit is out in the elements, invest in a plastic cover to keep the rain and snow off it and prevent rusting.
Your water heater
Whether you have an electric or gas hot water heater, you can save considerably over the course of the winter by doing two simple things. One, insulate the water heater with an insulation blanket. Much like insulating anything else, this keeps the heat in, meaning the water heater will have to run a lot less to keep it up to temperature. Speaking of which… two, turn the thermostat on the water heater down. Most water heaters are set up to run at 140 degrees F, but you’ll save a lot and miss out on nothing heat-wise by turning it down to 120 degrees F.
If you’re looking to take your water heating to the next level and really save, look into switching over to a tankless water heater or a solar hot water heating system.
Your ceiling fan
OK, here’s one you might not have thought of. If you have a ceiling fan, switch it over so that it runs clockwise during the winter (there should be a switch right on the fan). This will force warm air down, recirculating it and keeping you more comfortable during the winter months. Just make sure you switch it back before summer.
Your windows, doors, and other drafts
The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that 5%-30% of all energy use is wasted by drafts, and much of this is flying out your windows and doors. First, your windows. Replace all screen windows with storm windows, and check around the window casings themselves to make sure there are no gaps that could be letting heat out. Any gaps, crevices, etc. that you find, caulk them up. If any panes of glass are cracked, replace them. To really make your windows secure, consider picking up insulation kits (the kind you use with a hair dryer), or even the sticky putty that you roll out around the windows to block any gaps. If you want to really put a dent in your energy bill, replace all old windows with energy efficient new ones. This isn’t the cheapest way to go, but it will pay for itself sooner than you think.
On to your doors. Make sure all weather-stripping around your doors is in good shape, and caulk or insulate any gaps. Get draft snakes for the bottom of exterior doors, or you can roll up a few bath towels to cut down on drafts there.
Windows and doors will be your primary sources of drafts, but they aren’t the only culprits. Get a stick of incense or a candle and wander through your house checking for drafts. Any place where a pipe enters or leaves the house is good to check, as are any electrical or light outlets. You can caulk up the former, and get pre-formed insulators/outlet gaskets for the later.
One last tip here: if you have a basement with window wells, get plastic shields to cover them. All of these tips will not only keep you more comfortable this winter (heat in), but will also make it harder for insects and other little beasties to get in to your house (vermin out).
Your gutters, downspouts, and roof
Gutters clogged with leaves and other debris are prime breeding grounds for ice dams, which, as mentioned, are very bad. To remove this hazard, remove everything that has collected in the gutters over the summer and hose the gutters out. Make sure all the water you put into it is going through the downspout, so the entire system is working. Inspect the gutter and all connections to verify that everything is together and set for the winter. To make this chore easier for next year, think about installing leaf guards on all your gutters.
While you’re up there, check the roof. Replace any shingles or tiles that need it, and check the flashing to makes sure it’s in good shape. When you’re back on the ground, inspect the bottom of the downspout and make sure it’s draining far enough away from the house that it will not be creating problems with your foundation or basement. If need be, install an extension to the downspout so it dumps gutter water further from your house.
Your tools, summer and winter
It’s time to say goodbye to the summer tools, and hello to the winter ones. Clean, dry, and store all the rakes, hoes, shovels, and other tools you’ve used during the summer. Drain all garden hoses and store them away. Drain the gas from your mower and other summer gas-powered tools and store them away as well.
If your area gets snow, it’s time to prepare for it. Make sure you have shovels/a roof rake handy, and that they are in good condition. Get your snow blower tuned up and ready to go. If ice is going to be a problem, stock up on sand and/or salt now to deal with it. It’s a frustrating task to head out shopping for either after an ice storm.
Your foundation
Remove all debris from around your house’s foundation, including all vegetation growing around it. Visually inspect the foundation and seal up any cracks, holes, or other entry points that mice and other critters can get into. As mentioned previously, if you have a basement with windows, think about getting plastic covers for the window wells to keep out debris, snow, water, and animals. If you have a crawlspace, make sure all access points to it are sealed.
Your landscaping
Your house is looking pretty good, but don’t forget to winterize your property as well. First, put everything – from potted plants to chairs – away. If you don’t want it hanging around outside this winter, put it away now. Pick a nice day and seal everything, from driveways and walkways to brick patios and wooden decks.
Put your garden to bed for the winter, and remove any bulbs from your flower beds that cannot handle the cold (ex. dahlias, gladiolas). Fall is a great time to trim trees, so add that to the list. Trim limbs that are hanging too close to the house, threatening windows, getting too cozy with electrical wires, or overhanging your driveway. Prune fruit trees, and apply wrapping to the trunks to protect them against freezing and critters.
You’re prepared
For storms, that is. Winter storms come in all shapes and sizes, so it’s good to be prepared in case a bad one drops in to visit you. Stock up on candles, bottled water, non-perishable foods, blankets, and a first-aid kid. Look into a battery backup device for your computer and other vital electronics. Set up an evacuation plan – complete with a family gathering spot – for your house, and conduct “fire drills” to make sure everyone is aware of what to do if they have to get out of the house fast. Update your list of emergency numbers (police, fire, family members, utility companies, etc.) and post it on the refrigerator.
Your green future
It may not be something at the top of your list right now, but give some thought to what your future might hold in terms of energy usage and home efficiency. There are any number of local, state, and federal credit programs out there covering items such as new windows and doors, insulation, roofing, HVAC, and water heaters, as well as alternate energy upgrades like solar, biomass stoves, small wind turbines, etc. You can research what credits are available to you through the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency website.
How do you prepare for winter? Share your tips below!
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